A GENTLEMAN IN MILAN
Not just an entrepreneur, but an aesthete, a modern patron who has chosen to invest in the beating heart of a city steeped in history and style. Iranian origins, Parisian education, cosmopolitan passport, Alireza Niroomand is one of the most elegant men in the world.
But his is not just the charm of good clothes: it is a way of doing things, it is intelligence and culture, it is a refined look of an entrepreneur and bon vivant, of a lover of art, good food and music.
His characteristic features are an indisputable charm and a pure sense of hospitality: the Persian soul and the open look on the world have certainly contributed to the success of this contemporary gentleman, who is today the Creative Director of the Sant Ambroeus Hospitality Group.
Suit MARCELLO
Shirt NTEX
Alireza embodies a new paradigm of luxury: a pursuit of excellence, a love of craftsmanship and an innate nonchalance, qualities that are reflected in his everyday look. His background, an eclectic path between his passion for art and hospitality, makes him an ideal interpreter to ferry the historic icon Sant'Ambroeus towards a splendid and authentic future.
"Sant'Ambroeus is more than just a place, it's an experience, a ritual. My job is to preserve its soul, to enhance its heritage, without giving in to the allure of an ephemeral modernity", he tells us.
In love with Italy and fascinated by the clean, tidy and elegant style of the city of Milan, Niroomand is a loyal Fortela customer: the obsessive attention to detail, that lived-in, chic and casual feeling, that understated masculine elegance, with a vintage flavour but never didactic, are his hallmark.
And they are also the quintessence of Fortela, which won over the cultured entrepreneur at first sight, as he himself tells us, on the phone from Paris, while he is busy opening a new glorious branch of Sant'Ambroeus, an icon in the shadow of the “Madunina” which, under the guidance of Alireza, is already reaping success with its “twins” in London and New York.
When did you realize that it was important for a man to be elegant?
“I started to appreciate true sartorial style when I first arrived in Milan. But I have clear memories of when I was a child and I saw my father wearing a suit and tying his tie. I myself had my first suit when I was only 5 years old! Then I went to Boarding School, and there it was mandatory to wear a suit… let's say I learned very early how to tie my tie properly!
Your first memory of men's style?
My father. He always had a personal and distinctive charm. I remember him often wearing red socks: I did the same in my youth. I always liked to use small details, particular tricks, to create outfits that stood out from all the others.
How did you meet Fortela?
I came across the world of Fortela by chance: I was in Milan and I was looking for vintage fashion shops. Something caught my attention and I entered the shop in via Melzo. I didn't know Alessandro Squarzi at the time, nor his brand. But the atmosphere was in perfect harmony with what I was looking for, with what I like. Basically, I adopt two styles with which I live my weeks: a casual one and a strictly more formal one. Well, my casual look by Fortela is ideal for me, for how I like to dress. Squarzi has perfectly understood what men like me are looking for, and what they need, and creates perfect "uniforms": no logo, casual, timeless, with hidden details, refined without being affected. Fortela is my "uniform": decidedly discreet, it knows no seasons or trends. An idea of timeless fashion, but at the same time contemporary, fresh.
Jungle jacket ELIAS
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Blazer BLAZERMAG (in store only)
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Jungle jacket ELIAS
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And how would you define your formal style?
Always in a jacket and tie and a double-breasted blazer. I have a passion for navy blue, I must have about 20 navy blue suits in different fabrics, but all absolutely double-breasted. I don't know why I have this obsession, but I've always loved it, it gives me an "old feeling", a sense of slightly faded elegance. I like to dress like a grandfather, I call it my "granpa look": for example, the trousers are tailored, but rather soft, not too short, slightly wide, comfortable. Do you remember the suits that Steve McQueen wears in the film with Faye Dunaway The Thomas Crown Affair? Voilà: that's my idea of the perfect male look.
Is there any piece of the Fortela wardrobe that you particularly like?
I am an absolute fan of the “NewFatigue” pants model and denim shirts. Fortela denim shirts are timeless: they have the right cut, the right color, the right fit. I dress very simply when I am off duty: vintage jeans and a white t-shirt: but the t-shirt must be the one I like, of the right cotton, with the right proportions, and in this Fortela is perfect.
Jacket BLAZERMAG (in store only)
Shirt KING
Trousers NEWFATIGUE
Sant'Ambroeus has always been a place for the Milanese to live throughout the day. Every hour has its people: from the ladies who have “caffè & chats” to the businessmen who have their meetings in front of a tasty dish of Italian cuisine. How do your looks change during the different hours?
When I lived in New York I knew I could dress casually every day, I felt comfortable like that. But since I lived in Milan, and especially when I'm in Milan, I feel like I have to dress in a suit. I practically always wear it, except on weekends. Following the habits of the city, and those linked to Sant'Ambroeus - which is a place that is experienced throughout the day by a different audience, from its typical Milanese clientele to a more cosmopolitan crowd - I love wearing different suits. In the morning and until lunch, for example, I like to wear a day suit, then in the middle of the afternoon, when I go home, I change and wear a more appropriate suit for the evening. With the same philosophy I also choose the most suitable watch and shoes. Dressing appropriately, depending on the different situations and places, is in my opinion a distinctive trait of true elegance. I think it's a cultural factor, of respect.
What are the future developments for Sant'Ambroeus?
I am currently in Paris because I am working on the opening of Sant'Ambroeus in the City of Light. We will be opening in a very beautiful location, much appreciated by Italians who love the charm of the Rive Gauche: we will be near the historic Café Flore. The interior design is again by Fabrizio Casiraghi, whose interior architecture studio also designed Sant'Ambroeus in Milan. The color palette is the same, and there will be many elements that recall Milan. In fact, I could say that the whole new Parisian Sant'Ambroeus is an ode to Milan, very chic and timeless: a style that reflects my way of being and dressing. I don't like chasing trends or what is considered cool. “Coolness” tires, it is temporary. My approach is ageless. And that is why I like Sant'Ambroeus so much.
Suit MARCELLO
Shirt NTEX
What won you over about the Milanese style?
The art of tailoring, the attention to detail. And the elegantly dressed old ladies. I am a fan of the “old chic ladies”. I love that unique charm of the Milanese and I appreciate their kindness. I find that here there is a civic sense and an education that are not at all taken for granted nowadays.
How do you like to spend your free time?
I find new music, I'm a real enthusiast. I recently got back into vinyl, so I hunt for records. I love going to antique and second-hand markets, I like looking for vintage clothing. I really love art: when I lived in New York our restaurant was often frequented by a large community of artists and so I started a nice collection of works.
What should a man always wear in your opinion?
Jacket and tie, when “on duty”. And, always, I always add, long socks!
Jungle jacket ELIAS
Boat neck jumper NOAH
Have you visited the new Fortela flagship store in Milan?
Of course, and I love it! It is a beautiful store that expresses the style of the brand. I really like the area where it is located, the Liberty district in Milan, the building in front, full of decorations, is wonderful, and the vintage furnishings are perfect and in perfect harmony with the chosen colors. But perhaps the thing that I appreciate and value the most is the shopping experience: for me it is essential to find prepared, kind and competent staff. The Fortela team is attentive and helps you in a non-invasive way to find what you are looking for.
Interview by Benedetta Rossi